Saull-Itaire of Wight

Part of The Underway Gourmet by Suzy O'Keefe

This appeared in "CHANGES IN LATITUDES"
August 1996 LATITUDE 38

Saull-Itaire of Wight - N/A
Suzy O'Keefe
Still Looking For It
(Southern California)

I still haven't found what I'm looking for, but I've sure found a way to do a lot more looking.

Earlier this year, I completed my first passage to the South Pacific aboard the Alberg 34 Alice Colleen. The 21-day, two-hour crossing from Puerto Vallarta to the Marquesas was fine, with celebrations and sacrifices at the equator, a week's worth of comet Hyakutake, and all downwind sailing at its best. With three aboard, however, I found the boat a bit small.

Since the Marquesas, I've changed boats a few times... 800 miles aboard a 38-ft trimaran. Fine sailing with both boats, and it was a good experience for me. Neither of these boats had roller furling, so now I know how the other half lives - and it's not as well as they could live!

After six years in Mexico, Spanish still comes out every time I open my mouth. I guess I'll get used to French sooner or later, but one thing I'll never get used to is $2 beer - and that's the least it costs!

After sailing on to Bora Bora, I joined the Tradewinds "Around-the-World Rally". That was just six weeks ago, and I'm already at Malololailai Island, Fiji, enjoying myself at the Musket Cove Yacht Club.

The Tradewinds Rally is sponsored by Britain's Royal Air Force Yacht Club, and takes 20 months to complete the circumnavigation. In the next year the fleet will be stopping at Cairns, Darwin, Indonesia, Bali, Malaysia, Phuket, Sri Lanka, Djibouti, Port Sudan, Eilat, Port Said, Crete, Greece, Malta, and Gibraltar. The schedule allows for only short stops at each place, with a bit of what's called "free cruising" in between. The vessels are mostly large, expensive, and new. Most boats were purchased, outfitted and launched not much more than a year ago when the rally began at Gibralter.

Many of the skippers seem as 'new' as their boats, but I can safely report that most are learning via this accelerated course. Sixty-one boats signed up for the rally, 42 of them actually started, and 36 of them are still going at it.

Most boats have four people aboard, while a few have six. All but a very few exceptions have paying crew who chip in anywhere from $10 to $50 U.S. per day for the privilege! I'm one of the exceptions. The paying crew business was intended to keep out the riff-raff and make the paying guests feel as though they were part of the rally. But, in fact, it's horrible as it seems to have frustrated loyalty and camaraderie among the crew. It has also created a separation between owners and crew at social events.

After being used to the 'everyone's equal' feeling when in cruising Mexico, the business of some folks having to pay has seemed very odd. I'm being treated very well by both the owners and paying crew, however. I think it's not only because I'm the lone American in the event, but also because I'm more nearly the age of the typical owner. In addition, because I do some of the work on their SSB radio net, most folks knew me before they actually met me.

For anyone who cares, the Tradewinds Rally is on 4 Alpha at 1000 and 1800 local time depending on where we are. I'll also be back on the Ham airways whenever we are traveling and where the countries we visit don't require reciprocals.

Having said all that, here are my short reviews of the places I've been: Marquesas - Rainy, lots of no-no's, expensive, French. Tuamotus - Some rain, lots of beauty, wonderful diving, but also expensive. Try the huge sea urchins (uni) - they're delicious! Societies - Wonderful tropical vegetation and smells, better weather - but expensive. The Cooks - The most friendly people anywhere - English-speaking too. The diving is fantastic and the prices are reasonable. Aitutaki is especially recommended. Look for Father Don, the Catholic Priest known as "Sky Pilot" on the VHF. Niue - Isolated with friendly, English-speaking people. There's lots of land to explore, but only moorings for 12 boats and the anchoring is horrible. Inexpensive and very nice. Tonga - Many, many anchorages to choose from, as well as great diving. Think Kava by the barrel and Tongan feasts. Inexpensive. Fiji - Big cities and small islands. At Suva and Nadi you'll find night clubs and discos. The Melanesians are friendly while the Indians aren't. Very inexpensive, with wonderful choices of food and beer. Fiji is big enough so you can choose the kind of weather you want to have.

I'll stay with the Rally as long as it's fun or until I find something better.

- suzy 6-1-96