Bottom Cleaning

Cleaning the bottom of your boat can be a drag, but if you're poor or cheap (or both), then paying someone else to do it seems even more annoying. This is not rocket science. You do not need a high school diploma. You do not need a SCUBA or other assisted breathing apparatus (although it does make the work a lot easier). So if you don't mind taking a swim in the 'colorful' waters of your marina or anchorage, read on.

I live in San Francisco Bay, and dive my own boat (monthly, but it really depends on your situation. It should be often enough to check the anodes). I use a full 1/4" (6mm) wet suit. A dry suit is an expensive luxury, nice to have, but not necessary. You'll be working (hard) in 55-65F water for about 45 minutes. Not enough to suffer hypothermia. Most times I don't even wear gloves, although there was this one time in Clipper Cove...

I use tanks and BC (already owned because I like to dive), but I'd prefer a hooka rig or a long hose connected to my tank because it is less weight to carry around and you can work in smaller spaces. A contributor on the live-aboard mailing list suggested Sea Breathe (an Australian firm) and their Canadian partner Atlantic Engineering for battery operated hooka rigs. For about AUS$1,2000, the price is almost right! If the water is warmer and/or you've got good breath-hold technique, you could do it on mask, fin and snorkel, but I would tire out too easily. SCUBA is much easier on the body (and at max depth 10', you shouldn't have to worry too much about getting bent).

I check the (prop shaft) anode and prop first, so I won't be too tired when working with small screws and tools in near-zero visibility. One trick that I like is drilling a hole through the handle of the screwdriver and attaching a fishing lure spinner and some line to it - beats cursing yourself when you drop it. I like zinc anodes that have the following features: adhere to US Navy MILSPEC, apparently the mix of materials (e.g. the amount of cadmium) makes a big difference; the nut is "captive," that is, it is pressed into the metal so it can not come out while you are installing it; finally, some manufacturers have a plastic washer that keeps the bolt side from sliding out either, thus unless you drop one of the halves of a prop zinc, you can not lose any of the other parts. I use a 3M scratchy pad to clean the prop.

Once that's done, I use a medium weight boat brush and a plumber's helper. I scrub as lightly as possible and use fore and aft motion, so in case I do induce a scratch, at least it is in the direction of water flow (a tip from a pro who dove raceboats for a living). The plumber's helper is used to keep you from floating away while you scrub. I've tried the plastic thingy they sell at West Marine, but it either doesn't work, or works too well and doesn't remove when you want it to. Besides, the plunger can be used for other things and everything on a boat must have at least two uses ;-) Work from any direction (top to bottom, etc.) that works for you.

Finally, I'll check and clear all of the through-hulls, speedo wheels, and depth sounder transducers. I'll check the bearings on my skeg-hung rudder, and give the prop shaft a little wiggle to check the cutlass bearing. I'll give all of the "sharp" corners a good look over for cracks and other potential problems. Finally, I give the old girl a good pat on the rump because I want her to know how much I care.

Clean all your tools with fresh water and spary with WD40 (or some other light water-removing oil). Hang up your gear and open up a brewskie: you've earned it.

Some people have asked whether they can make some extra money on the deal by working on your friend's and neighbor's boats. I don't think the pros in SF make much more than a decent living, so I've never been really keen on pursuing a new "career," but I hear in Mexico you might be able to trade for a few beers.