Date: Tue, 14 Apr 98 08:06:45 -0700 From: Nick/Deborah PearceSUMMARY of responses received to question about refinishing a teak and holly veneer sole.
CONCERNS: would using a palm sander endanger the thin surface; would cleaning with TSP and putting on another coat of varnish produce unsatisfactory results; what's the best varnish to use; what experiences have other listserve members had that we could learn from?
RALPH CARUSO says there may no alternative to an electric sander if the varnish build up is great. He used a belt sander and did have a couple of small areas where the surface was compromised. But a patient person could use a random-orbit/palm sander with good results, he figures.
As to the varnish itself, "I used an inexpensive lumberyard "spar" varnish for the base coats and Captain's Varnish for the last 5 coats on the top. On the bottoms, I used the lumberyard stuff, and can't tell the difference. Note that you really should do the bottoms and the edges, with at least two coats, because you will get water intrusion and mildew if you don't."
DENECE VINCENT is using Homer Formsby Furniture refinisher, bronze wool and Tung oil. Some professionals told her to use Deft; an acquaintance used a Diamond Finish Varathane.
JEFF HUNTINGTON recommends Defthane, as opposed to Deft, which he says is easy to use and durable, with two coats sufficient for most areas and an extra coat or two for the high traffic bits. Defthane is harder to find than Deft. Several boatbuilders recommended the former to him. It comes in gloss, semi-gloss and satin, and the gloss tends to be a tad slippery for a sole.
Jeff also notes, from bitter experience, that the palm sander will create more dust than a storm in the desert, that the dust catching bag doesn't, and that the whole sanding process takes forever. (He's also doing the edges by hand.) In addition, Jeff points out the necessity of preparing the surface properly: Having had one disaster, he plans to wipe down with alcohol or mineral spirits, instead of a tack cloth.
Back to sanding, RANDY STROSCHEIN notes that veneer can be different thicknesses, ranging from 1/64th inch, which will disintegrate with the touch of 100 grit, to 1/16th. And the thickness, in a sole which has been previously refinished, may already be compromised.
In areas which have gone grey, Randy says bleaching and cleaning options can be tried, including TeKa (very carefully), "but they often leave the surface rough enough to require sanding, and then you're back to that issue."
Randy would not use Tung oil: he says it's fine for solid wood, but when you're dealing with thin veneer, it might not be enough protection. He also thinks Defthane Semigloss Polyurethane Varnish, which he likes for other interior uses, isn't hard enough for a floor. He suggests any of the hard varnishes, and that it might be worth investigating the finishes used on bowling alleys and bar tops.
Back to sanding.
RICHARD EDWARDS suggests using 180 grit to start sanding rather than 80, just to be on the safe side. And he thinks using a heat gun and scraper on the grey areas might be a good alternative to sanding.
TOM O'MEARA, on the other hand, recommends going with 80 to 120 grit, depending on expertise with the sander. Finer grits clog easily. Keep the sander moving to prevent sand-through, and sand just enough to accomplish what you want. Alternatively, a scraper could be used to remove the old varnish.
Tom adds, "The real danger in getting through the veneer is in the heavy wear areas, not in large area sanding. The heavy wear areas may, indeed, already be worn through in some cases."
D.J. SHADE is unequivocal in recommending sanding. "You have to sand. The varnish in those shiny (unworn) areas will lift, and the sole will look like a forearm following a bad sunburn."
DON WILSON notes an alternative to varnish. Three years ago he used System Three's water based clear polyurethane, using a paint spray rig (he says the airless type is preferable). It's holding up well, plus the stuff is easy to work with and free of VOCs. His neighbor used a brush, but said you have to work really quickly.
That's it, folks. Thanks so much to everyone who responded. Now comes the hard part: actually DOING it, instead of just talking!
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